LAmag.com

Owners of this 1930s haunt in Glassell Park, which last month reopened for business seven nights a week, have quickly won the "we're not worthy" prostrations of the local beer-obsessed. The watering hole flaunts an 80-year-old wooden bar that's been lovingly restored, a "To-Go" fridge of fine bottles, and 20 taps of impressive pours. But now, the owners tell us, they are upping the ante by reserving two of those taps at all times for rotating, specialty kegs. Consider it the beer bar's version of a hot-shit DJ. And if this first set is any indication, you'll wanna get that second job so you can afford to be a regular.

This week, the bar tapped two nearly unheard-of kegs: Stone Brewing's Smoked Porter with Vanilla Bean, and the super-strong Harviestoun Ola Dubh ale. The porter, a sweet, nearly carbonation-free cask ale, is the beer connoisseurs' answer to the $4 latte, its foamy lacing not unlike fresh, vanilla-spiked whipped cream.

But the bar's real star is the Ola Dubh, a dank Scotch ale that's aged for 18 months in the same whisky barrels that were once used to mature Highland Park scotch. With fewer than 30 kegs in the U.S., and at $500 a pop, it's one of the most expensive, sought after kegs. In stores, Harviestoun Brewery sells collectible boxes with three strengths of this brew: 12-year, 16-year and 30-year. Verdugo has the old stuff, by far the richest version, so they're serving it in 5-oz doses for $9. It comes like chilled engine oil in a sparkly goblet. Just don't sip it right away, or you'll be scolded by the bartender—it needs to warm up by 10-degrees before all the scotch taste is released.

Cup it. Breath on it. Bring a Bunsen burner if you can. But believe us, it's worth the wait. All of the typical roasted-coffee-chocolate notes of this kind of black beer are pushed to the side by the unmistakable woodsy, peat-mossy taste of a fine scotch. Rest assured, you won't be the only one cupping your glass at the bar. During our three trips this week (yes, three trips) the bar's owners could be found on bar stools themselves, sipping the stuff and shaking their heads in silence, as if they still couldn't believe they pulled it off.

Verdugo Bar, 3408 Verdugo Rd., Glassell Park. 323-257-3408. Verdugobar.com.

Evan George and Alex Brown co-edit the beer-cooking blog “Hot Knives”. Evan is also a contributor to Los Angeles Magazine.